Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning – from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
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