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Mastering Weave Structures: Transforming Ideas into Great Cloth Sharon Aldermana
 |
| Mastering Weave Structures |
This is the most important new weaving book (The Weaving Book: Patterns and Ideas
) Interweave Press has published in almost 20 years (The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book
). Sharon Alderman, one of the finest weavers in America, has written a book that teaches you the finer points of weave structure in the same personal way a friend would encourage and inspire you. Clear explanations (The Handweaver's Pattern Directory: Over 600 Weaves for 4-shaft Looms
), wonderful examples, and color photographs of stunning fabrics introduce you to the fundamental principles of weave structure. Beyond selecting or modifying a draft, Sharon also helps you make decisions about choosing the fibers and yarns you need to produce endlessly inventive fabrics. Comprehensive and detailed, the chapters cover plain weave, twills, satin, waffle weaves, distortions of the grid, three-element weaves, loom-controlled double weave, Bedford cords and piques, loom-controlled pile weaves, and crepe weaves. This book is destined to become a new classic and should be on every weaver's bookshelf. (The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials
)
) Interweave Press has published in almost 20 years (The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book). Sharon Alderman, one of the finest weavers in America, has written a book that teaches you the finer points of weave structure in the same personal way a friend would encourage and inspire you. Clear explanations (The Handweaver's Pattern Directory: Over 600 Weaves for 4-shaft Looms), wonderful examples, and color photographs of stunning fabrics introduce you to the fundamental principles of weave structure. Beyond selecting or modifying a draft, Sharon also helps you make decisions about choosing the fibers and yarns you need to produce endlessly inventive fabrics. Comprehensive and detailed, the chapters cover plain weave, twills, satin, waffle weaves, distortions of the grid, three-element weaves, loom-controlled double weave, Bedford cords and piques, loom-controlled pile weaves, and crepe weaves. This book is destined to become a new classic and should be on every weaver's bookshelf. (The Big Book of Weaving: Handweaving in the Swedish Tradition: Techniques, Patterns, Designs and Materials)Download Links:
Chemical finishing of textiles W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Chemical finishing of textiles
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W D Schindler, University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany and P J Hauser, NCSU, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 32
…provides an excellent introduction to the chemical finishing of textiles with useful practical information from the authors.
International Dyer
…compact and very readable.
International Dyer
- discusses the advantages and disadvantages of every important type of chemical finish
- combines technical understanding and practical experience concisely
- essential tool to assist in the demanding challenge of chemical finishing for textiles
The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. In one comprehensive book, Chemical finishing of textiles details the fundamentals of final chemical finishing, covering the range of effects that result from the interplay between chemical structures and finishing products.
After an introductory chapter covering the importance of chemical finishing, the following chapters focus on particular finishing techniques, from softening, easy-care and permanent press, non-slip and soil-release, to flame-retardant, antistatic and antimicrobial. Within each chapter, sections include an introduction, mechanisms, chemistries, applications, evaluations and troubleshooting. The book concludes with a chapter on the future trends in chemical finishing.
Chemical finishing of textiles is an essential reference for all academic and industrial textile chemists and for those studying textile education programmes.
ISBN 1 85573 905 4
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 905 5
August 2004
224 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Dr W D Schindler is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Textile Finishing at the University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany. His main research interests are the chemistry of fibres, dyestuffs, textile auxiliaries, chemical finishing and textile chemical analysis. He published 39 papers and claimed several patents on new textile developments. Titles which may also be of interest: Introduction to chemical finishing Chemical finishing processes Softening finishes Hand building finishes Easy-care and durable press finishes of cellulosics Repellent finishes Soil-release finishes Flame-retardant finishes Non-slip finishes Antistatic finishes Anti-pilling finishes Elastomeric finishes Finishes to improve colour fastness Ultraviolet protection finishes Antimicrobial finishes Insect resist and mite protection finishes Finishing with enzymes: Bio-finishes for cellulose Novel finishes Actual and future trends in chemical finishingAbout the authors
Dr P J Hauser teaches undergraduate and graduate courses in the chemistry of textile wet processing at North Carolina State University. He has numerous scientific publications and patents in the area of high performance textile chemicals for enhanced product value.
WoolContents
- Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
- The challenge and charm of chemical finishing
- Importance of chemical finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Application of chemical finishes
- Drying wet textiles
- Curing chemical finishes
- Coating and laminating
- References
- Appendix 2.1
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of the softening effect
- Typical softened textiles articles
- Product types and their chemistry
- Schematic comparison of important properties of softeners
- Compatibility and combinability
- Evaluation and testing methods
- Particulars of and troubleshooting softening finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Definitions and terms
- The hand building effect
- Examples of textiles with hand building finishes
- Typical hand builder chemistry
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing
- Examples of textiles with easy-care and durable press finishes
- Chemistry of easy-care and durable press finishes
- Application methods
- Compatibility with other finishes
- Evaluation methods
- Troubleshooting and practical problems
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of repellency
- Repellent chemistry
- Evaluation of textile treated with repellent finishes
- Troubleshooting repellent finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of soil release
- Soil release chemistry
- Evaluation of soil release
- Troubleshooting for soil release finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of flame retardancy
- Flame retardant chemistry
- Flame retardants for cellulose
- Flame retardants for wool
- Flame retardants for polyester
- Flame retardants for nylon
- Flame retardants for other fibres
- Flame retarding fibre blends
- Novel approach to flame retardancy: Intumescents
- Evaluation of flame retardants
- Troubleshooting flame retardant finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of non-slip finishes
- Chemisty of non-slip finishes
- Application methods and combinability
- Evaluation of non-slip finishes
- Troubleshooting non-slip finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of antistatic finishes
- Chemistry of antistatic finishes
- Conductive fibres
- Evaluation of antistatic finishes
- Troubleshooting antistatic finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Pilling mechanism
- Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling finishes
- Evaluation of anti-pilling finishes
- Troubleshooting anti-pilling finishes and compatibility
- References
- Introduction
- Elastomeric mechanism
- Chemistry of elastomeric finishes
- Evaluation of elastomeric finishes
- Troubleshooting elastomeric finishes and particularities
- References
- Introduction
- Improved wet fastness
- Improved light fastness
- Improved crocking and rubbing fastness
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanism of UV protection
- Chemistry of UV protection finishes
- Evaluation of UV protection finishes
- Troubleshooting UV protection finishes and combinability
- References
- Introduction
- Properties of an effective antimicrobial finish
- Mechanisms of antimicrobial finishes
- Chemistry of antimicrobial finishes
- Evaluation of antimicrobial finishes
- Troubleshooting antimicrobial finishes
- References
- Introduction
- Mechanisms of insect resist finishes
- Chemistry of insect resist finishes
- Application of insect resist finishes
- Evaluation of insect resist finishes Troubleshooting insect resist finishes
- Finishes for protection from dust mites
- References
- Introduction
- Action of cellulase enzymes on cellulose
- Chemistry of enzyme finishing
- Evaluation of bio-finishing
- Troubleshooting bio-finishing
- References
- Introduction
- Anti-odour and fragrance finishes
- Fibre surface modifying finishes using plasma and radiation technologies
- Fibre surface modification by sol-gel finishes with inorganic oxide films
- References
- Introduction
- Cost reduction and higher efficiency
- New kinds of effects
- Less undesired side effects
- Easier application
- Micro-encapsulation, a new trend of storage and release of active finishing products
- Higher permanence to washing and chemical cleaning
- Easier care of the finished textiles
- Better ecology
- Using fewer chemicals
- Smart textiles by chemical finishing
- Summary and outlook
- References
Handbook of textile design J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Handbook of textile design Link 1 Download link 2 Download
J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14
- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design
Read more ...
J Wilson, UMIST, UK
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 14
- the range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designer
- the professional practice of running a textile design studio
- how design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client
- the major principles of textile design
Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning – from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Download
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design will be an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
Published in association with The Textile Institute
ISBN 1 85573 573 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 573 6
September 2001
160 pages 244 x 172mm paperback
Contents
An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase
- The global textile and clothing industries
- Textile materials, processes, products and organisations
- Design in textiles and clothing
- Designers found in textiles and clothing
- Fibres
- Yarns
- Woven fabrics
- Knitted fabrics
- Lace and non-woven fabrics
- Textile organisations – size and structure
- Converters and wholesalers
- Categorising textiles
- Diversity of products
- Apparel textiles
- Furnishing fabrics or interior textiles
- Household textiles
- Industrial textiles
- Consumer textiles
- Textiles categorised by market area and price
- Summary
- Bibliography
Textile designers within textiles and clothing
- The diversity of textile design and textile designers
- The purpose of a textile designer
- Stylists
- Colourists
- Repeat artists
- In-house and freelance designers
- Timing in the textile and clothing industries
- Seasonal ranges
- Printed and constructed textiles
- From sketchbook to fabric samples
- Design adaption and modification
- Examples of textile design briefs/problems
- Summary
- Bibliography
The textile design function
- The activities of a textile designer
- How design work is done
- The design process
- Planning design work
- Planning
- Objectives
- Identifying the aims and objectives of a design project
- Checklists
- Project planning methods
- Time management
- Range planning
- Research
- Ideas generation
- Brainstorming
- Range development
- Design development
- Range presentation
- Presentation of initial design ideas
- Presentation of design and artwork
- Visual presentations made by textile designers
- Publicity/promotion/packaging
- Store display
- Presentation to customers
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The principles and elements of textile design
- Design elements and principles
- Design elements
- Introduction to design principles
- Inspiration for textile designs
- Pattern
- Basic repeat structures
- The influence of end use and methods of manufacture on repeat size
- Centering
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Commercial aspects of design
- The organisation and functions of a retail business
- Buying and merchandising
- Receiving
- Advertising and display
- Selling
- Accounts
- Personnel administration
- Salaries and pensions
- Despatch
- Maintenance and cleaning
- Different types of retail structures
- Merchandise
- Buying
- Information generation
- Letters
- Reports
- Fabric specifications
- Percentage compositions
- Information for costing
- Summary
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 1
- Getting design jobs
- Advertising
- A model for design administration
- Goslett's model
- The initial meeting
- Sizing up the job
- Agreeing terms of reference
- Fees – how much to charge
- Different types of fees
- Fixed fees
- Hourly rates
- Retainers
- Royalties
- Exclusivity
- Keeping records
- Invoicing
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
The professional practice of design – 2
- Professional bodies
- The Textile Institute
- International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID)
- The Design Council
- Chartered Society of Designers (CSD)
- The Design Research Society
- The Design Management Institute (DMI)
- Services and opportunities normally provided by professional organisations
- Trade organisations and associations
- The Woolmark Company
- British Knitting and Clothing Export Council
- The Knitting Industries Federation
- Business organisations
- Business structures
- The business plan
- Legal protection
- Copyright
- Design right
- Length of protection
- Design registration
- Patents
- Trade and service marks
- Summary
- Bibliography
Designing for the future
- Purchase decisions
- Consumer buying behaviour
- Factors influencing product choice
- Fashion
- Why do fashions change?
- Forecasting fashion trends
- Summary
- References
- Bibliography
Weave and woven textile design
- Design for weave
- Weaving
- Initial considerations
- Colour considerations
- Yarn selection
- Weave structure
- Drafting and lifting plans
- Denting
- Sett
- Weave repeat
- Warping and picking plans
- Notation systems for weavers
- Plain weave
- Plain weave colour and weave effects
- Some simple basic weaves
- Hopsack or matt weaves
- Twill weaves
- Colour and weave effects on twills
- Pointed and herringbone twills
- Regular satin and sateen
- More complex weaves and weave combinations
- Sample warps
- Finishing
- Fabric specifications/making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Weft knitting, weft-knitted fabric and knitwear design
- Knitting
- Weft-knit manufacture
- Machine gauge
- Weft-knitting machines and fabric types
- Plain fabric
- Rib fabrics
- Purl fabric
- Interlock fabric
- Characteristics of weft-knitted fabrics
- Weft-knitted fabric structures
- Miss stitch
- Tuck stitch
- Transfer stitch
- The graphic representation of fabrics
- The face loop stitch
- The reverse loop stitch
- 2x2 rib
- 1x1 purl
- Moss stitch
- Knitwear production
- Fully fashioned knitwear
- Cut and sewn knitwear
- Summary
- Bibliography
Printing and printed textile design
- Printed textiles
- Initial considerations
- Different classes of printing
- Dyed
- Resist
- Discharge
- Direct
- Printing processes and print types
- Batik
- Tie dye
- Hand painted mordanted cottons
- Block printing
- Copper-plate printing
- Roller printing
- Screen printing
- Application prints
- Overprints
- Blotch prints
- Devore or burn out prints
- Discharge prints
- Flock prints
- Transfer printing
- Developing design ideas
- Classifying printed textile designs
- Motifs and styles
- Layouts
- Pattern direction
- Design size
- Repeats and colourways
- Base fabrics
- Dyes and pigments
- Print sampling
- Making particulars
- Summary
- Bibliography
Download
Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles By : Maria C. Thiry
| Applied Technology: Applying Antimicrobials to Textiles |
| By : Maria C. Thiry Source: AATCC There are many options to weigh when considering which antimicrobial is best for a particular product. Application method is an important aspect to examine in more detail. According to Damien Fruchart, textile engineer with Asix International Development Consultancy, there are three main options for applying an antimicrobial agent to textiles. Each has its own advantages and challenges. The first option is treating the fabric through an "aqueous process" in the finishing line with the antimicrobial substance. The second is incorporating the antimicrobial into or onto the fiber itself. A third application method, according to Fruchart, is post-consumer, "an additive designed to be added to the laundering water each time the product is washed." Applied to the Fabric The benefit of topical antimicrobial treatment applied to the fabric during the finishing stage is that "Topical application is more versatile," says Jeff Trogolo, chief technology officer for antimicrobial supplier Agion. "It's later in the process and gives the retailer more flexibility about which fabric to choose." A topical antimicrobial finish is appropriate for any use that uses a relatively small amount of fabric, or one that mixes many different fiber types, Trogolo says. Washfastness is key, says Hirotoshi Goto, professional engineer JP for fabric supplier Toray Industries. In Japan, the standard for wash durability is 50 washes at 80C for industrial laundering such as hospitals. For non-hygiene-critical applications such as home laundering, 20 washes at 40C is considered standard. Washfastness can be improved through the use of a highly durable resinous binder, which has better affinity with the agent and fiber and works like an adhesive, says Goto. "But this kind of resin is hydrophobic, and will give new problems," he says. Issues may include residual formaldehyde, or a fabric that is unable to absorb perspiration. Goto says that a new method used by his company applies the antimicrobial as a fabric finish without a binder. Instead, the antimicrobial infiltrates into the synthetic fibers in a manner similar to a disperse dye. "This agent has especially high affinity with polyester fiber," says Goto. Another challenge of using topical antimicrobial finishes, says antimicrobial consultant William D. Hanrahan, is that "each individual fiber and fiber blend has its own chemistry and its own way of being finished. You have to make sure that the antimicrobial doesn't interfere with any other finishes being applied to the fabric, and that the characteristics of the fabric-hand, water repellency, fire retardance-aren't changed." Applied to the Fiber Applying the antimicrobial directly into the fiber master batch during synthetic fiber formation is also popular. According to Hanrahan, adding the antimicrobial at the fiber stage narrows the field of antimicrobials that can be used because synthetic fibers are commonly extruded at high temperatures. This rules out most organic antimicrobials says Mark Wiencek of Milliken, because many are not thermally stable. "They may lose some of the active ingredients. Incorporation of antimicrobials into textile fibers during the spinning process (often via a master batch) is an application dominated by silver. This is because silver is thermo-stable," he says. "Antimicrobial agents blended into the fiber can show superior washing durability, but take longer to work," says Goto. He also says that, since many of the fiber-application systems are metal-based antimicrobials, the color of the fiber can sometimes be affected. Hanrahan says that another limitation of this application is that the retailer loses flexibility, because the antimicrobial is added far back into the supply chain. "It means you have to carry inventory. And the product may be marked up along the supply chain," he says. "This application tends to be more durable, but not as economical." According to Trogolo, this kind of application is best for end-uses that need large amounts of one kind of fiber, such as upholstery or uniforms. Other Applications Other ways of applying antimicrobials to textiles are less common. Noble Biomaterials' X-Static product is a "universal and permanent coating of silver on substrates from yarn to fabric," says the company's Chief Commercial Officer, Joel M. Furey. This system is "primarily intended where users need high levels of performance," says Furey. This means "high kill rates of bacteria and fungi with a fast kill action," he says. Another product with a high kill rate is chlorine. According to Wiencek, n-halamine binders "have a unique way of dealing with antimicrobial treatments-they bind chlorine to the fabric, so that they can make claims that EPA-registered chlorine bleach can make." According to Fruchart, chlorine is "as good as any disinfectant. A 99.9% killing rate is reached within an hour, which is quicker than most other aqueous treatments." This is Fruchart's post-consumer after-treatment method. The chlorine is used as an antimicrobial and is recharged onto the fabric by adding chlorine bleach to the laundry. A drawback to this system, says Wiencek, is that although this technology is intended for niches that require industrial laundering, not all industrial laundries use chlorine-based bleach. Fruchart remarks that in a laminated product, "instead of treating the fabric, an antimicrobial agent is added in the adhesive. The active ingredient will radiate, thus creating an inhibition zone, while remaining resistant to laundering." Adhesive treatment makes it possible for laminated polyester fabric to maintain an antimicrobial activity despite prolonged washing cycles. In a similar vein, Fruchart notes that "one technique, although not frequently used, consists of placing antimicrobial agents contingent in between two membranes. The membranes' permeability allows the controlled release of active ingredients, which migrate to the surface. This type of process is mainly....for products that do not get laundered, like mattress covers and separation curtains. With complementary methods, protection can last for several years." A flexible technology like the Aegis SiQuat can be applied in or onto fibers, fabrics, or post-consumer laundry treatment, says Bob Montincello of Aegis Environments. "This versatility in application provides textile mills with options... [that] keep down costs and maximize performance," he says. "The best application procedure for antimicrobial treatment will provide for mill qualification testing and good, solid SOPs, along with quality assurance procedures that are based upon useful chemical analytical and microbiological tests," says Curt White of Aegis Environments. Does the Application Matter? Depending on the product's end-use, the marketing claims made, the antimicrobial's chemical and physical properties, and its mode of antimicrobial activity, the antimicrobial's application does matter. Some antimicrobials can be applied in several ways, but other technologies are limited to one mode of application. A product designer's main priorities, whether for flexibility, durability, cost, compatibility with other finishes, spectrum of microbes to be fought, or high-performance, may influence the application, and the antimicrobial, chosen to protect that product. Application matters! Originally published in AATCC News; June 2009 © AATCC About the Author The author is associated with AATCC. |
A Comparative Study of Different Stone and Bio-stone Washing of Denim
Abstract
Denim washing is known as one of the finishing treatment that has vast usage because of creating special appearance and updating clothes. Washing jean clothes are being developed and technology of denim washing is the main part of clothes Industry. In current study, comparison of different washing methods is considered. Different methods of denim washing including the use of pumice stone, neutral and acid cellulases and also combination of pumice stone and cellulases. The change of color of resulting samples are compared by the reflecting colorimeter of inside garment, outside garment and pocket material after doing experiments. Tensile of samples is measured, XRD spectrum and crystalline degree also monitored. Furthermore, the surfaces of fibers in treated samples have been observed by SEM images. The result of experiments shows that neutral cellulases produced a fabric with higher lightness and increasing of enzyme adding to back staining. Denim treatment with 100% o.w.f pumice stone alone wasn't effective. However, combination of 100% pumice stone with cellulases showed a good washing effect.
Keywords: Denim, Stone washing, Back-staining, Lightness, Cellulases, Pumice stone
About the Authors
The authors are associated with Department of Textile Engineering, Amirkabir University of Technology and Postgraduate Department, South Branch of Tehran Azad University, Tehran, Iran, respectively.
Cotton Fabric Printing with Reactive Dye using Guar Gum
Abstract
Water and soil repellency has been one of the major targets for fiber and textile scientists and manufacturers for centuries. Nano science is employed for this type of problems. From the nano science self cleaning is the wonderful technology for dirt-free with other functional finishes. So, through this paper we deals with various mechanisms of self-cleaning and the coatings, manufacturing methods, and also various functional finishes like antimicrobial; UV ray finishes which can be imparted with the major advantages than the other conventional finishes and application area of this technique. Connection to this limitation, problems with this technique and recommendations for the purpose of bringing out new ideas which is incorporated in the self cleaning garments.
Introduction
Nature has already developed an elegant approach that combines chemistry and physics to create super repellant surfaces as well as self cleaning surfaces. "Lotus leaves" is the best example of self cleaning surfaces. The technology of self-cleaning coatings has developed rapidly in recent years. As a commercial product, their potential is huge and their market truly global. Because of the wide range of possible applications. The concept of self cleaning textiles is based on the lotus plant whose leaves are well-known for their ability to self-clean by repelling water and dirt. Now day's peoples are very busy in their work that they do not have time for clean their daily wear cloths also people who are working in kitchens having headache to wash their garments. Also military peoples have to survive in such drastic condition that they cannot wash their cloths. Nano technology provides a new concept self cleaning textiles which gives self cleaning as well as fresh cloths every day, this not only technically benefited but techno economically also benefited. The field of self-cleaning coatings is divided into two categories: hydrophobic and hydrophilic. These two types of coating both clean themselves through the action of water, the former by rolling droplets and the latter by sheeting water that carries away dirt. Hydrophilic coatings, however, have an additional property: they can chemically break down adsorbed dirt in sunlight.
About the Author
The author is associated with PSG College of Technology.
Chemical testing of textiles
Chemical testing of textiles
Edited by Q Fan, University of Massachusetts at Dartmouth, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 40
…a useful book that will find a place in many textile laboratories worldwide.
International Dyer
- a comprehensive overview of the chemical testing of textiles for both academia and industry
- provides extensive coverage of the chemical analysis procedures for a broad range of textiles
- compiled by a worldwide team of renowned experts
Chemical testing of textiles is a comprehensive book aimed at giving a full overview of chemical testing for both academics and industry. It provides an extensive coverage of the chemical analysis procedures for a broad range of textiles. It introduces fundamental chemical concepts and rudimentary procedures and tries to balance the theoretical and practical parts of the contents. In most cases, the chemical analysis is undertaken with a test method regulated and updated by a professional organization. It serves as a great accompaniment to Physical testing of textiles. It has been compiled with the hard work of a team of contributors including professors, material researchers and textile analysts from Canada, Britain, Germany, and the United States of America.
The opening chapter deals with fibre and yarn identification and is followed by nine separate chapters discussing different chemical analyses with regard to textiles. These include leather, feather/down, textile wet processes, fibre finishes, coatings, performance related tests, wastewater, and dyes and pigments.
This book will be a valuable resource for academic and industrial chemists, lecturers and students of textile chemistry and related subjects. It will also serve as a practical guide for textile plant managers, process engineers, technologists, qualified practitioners, textile research and testing institutes, quality inspectors, chemist-colourists and textile designers.
ISBN 1 85573 917 8
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 917 8
September 2005
336 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Qinguo Fan is an Associate Professor of Textile Chemistry at University of Massachusetts Dartmouth. His research interests include textile chemistry, color science, polymer science, and environmental compliance of textile wet processing. Fibre and yarn identifications Chemical analysis of feather and down textile materials Chemical analysis of leather Analysis of common chemicals used in textile wet processes Analysis of chemicals used in fibre finishing Chemical analysis of fabric finishes and performance related tests Chemical analysis of textile coating Chemical assessment of damage to fibers and fabrics Water and wastewater analysis Chemical analysis of dyes and pigmentsAbout the editor
Contents
S C Ugbolue, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA
- Introduction
- Natural fibers
- Regenerated fibers
- Fiber identification
- Density measurement
- The use of infrared spectroscopy
- Other methods of surface analysis
- References
M J Lieber, W K Lieber and C L Lieber, IDFL, USA
- Introduction
- Chemical analysis of feathers and down
- Chemical analysis of extracts
- Visual analytical methods
- Finished product quality
- References
Y Shao, Center for Textile Technologies (Group CTT), Canada
- Introduction
- Identification of leather
- Analysis of tanning materials
- Tests of leather properties
- Tests of leather performance
- Tests of leather stability (aging)
- References
Q Fan, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA
- Introduction
- Acids, bases and salts
- Surfactants
- Oxidizing agents and reducing agents
- Miscellaneous chemicals
- References
Q Fan, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA
- Introduction
- Sizing agents
- Lubricants and cohesive agents
- Other additives
- References
P Hauser, North Carolina State University, USA
- Introduction
- Analysis of fabric finishes
- Finish performance tests
- References
R Scott, Rascotex, UK
- Introduction
- Chemical types used in coatings and membranes
- Natural and synthetic rubbers
- Preparation of coatings for analysis
- Elemental analysis
- The Burchfield colour reaction test for elastomers
- Infra-red spectroscopy of Coatings
- British and international chemical test methods
- Analysis of components, additives and compounding ingredients
- Conclusions
- References
W Schindler and E Finnimore, Fachhochschule Hof, Germany
- Introduction
- Practical importance of textile damage assessment and analysis of causes of damage
- Fundamentals of textile damage analysis
- Methods of textile damage analysis
- Damage analysis according to the type of fibre
- Special types of damage and their analysis
- Special applications and particularities of textile damage analysis
- Concluding remarks
- Acknowledgments
- References
H S Freeman and C B Smith, North Carolina State University, USA
- Introduction
- Specific tests
- Issues and improvements for the future
- List of resource materials
K N Tapley, University of Leeds, UK and Q Fan, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA
- Introduction
- Colorants
- General issues in analysis and the steps involved in analysis
- Molecular spectroscopy/spectrometry
- Atomic spectroscopy (and elemental analysis)
- Separation science
- Summary of instrumental analysis
- Colorant analysis without using instruments
- References
Cellulosic Dyeing By John Shore
The best resource for those wishing to understand the chemistry of the dyeing of cellulose fibers at a more technical level. Chemical structures, reaction mechanisms, electron micrographs of cotton fibers, etc. - this is the one book that all those students who e-mail me (wanting me to spoon-feed them everything they need to know for their A-levels) should consult, instead. Highly recommended for those with a scientific background or who have taken some chemistry courses. [Available online from the Society of Dyers and Colorists.]
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Complete Textile Glossory
Complete Textile Glossary - This free 211 page online book is a pdf file that is downloadable and printable. Compiled by Celanese Acetate LLC, this is the fifth edition and is an incredibly detailed resource with over 2,000 entries and is an illustrated dictionary of fiber and textile technology that includes coverage of advanced materials-composites, aerospace textiles, geotextiles, and new fiberforming polymers.
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Complete Textile Glossory
Complete Textile Glossary - This free 211 page online book is a pdf file that is downloadable and printable. Compiled by Celanese Acetate LLC, this is the fifth edition and is an incredibly detailed resource with over 2,000 entries and is an illustrated dictionary of fiber and textile technology that includes coverage of advanced materials-composites, aerospace textiles, geotextiles, and new fiberforming polymers.
Read more ...
mirror Download
Complete Textile Glossory
Complete Textile Glossary - This free 211 page online book is a pdf file that is downloadable and printable. Compiled by Celanese Acetate LLC, this is the fifth edition and is an incredibly detailed resource with over 2,000 entries and is an illustrated dictionary of fiber and textile technology that includes coverage of advanced materials-composites, aerospace textiles, geotextiles, and new fiberforming polymers.
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Textile - Reference Book for Man Made Fibers
Textile - Reference Book for Man Made Fiber, the name of book say every thing about itself. Best books about man made fibers.
Textile - Reference Book for Man Made Fibers
Fondazione Acimit Pub,2004, 73 pages
Textile - Reference Book for Finishing
Textile - Reference Book for Finishing,
A Great book about finishing, The textile processing industry is complexly structured – just as complex, even impenetrable is the know-how that an expert in the textile field should have. The new Encyclopedia of Textile Finishing is designed to bring some order into the confusion of technical terms in this sector. The encyclopedia was devised with the specialists in mind and is a store of knowledge for the textile specialist. It consists of three volumes containing in alphabetical order the latest research findings (approx. 16000 keywords) from all technical disciplines of textile finishing and their practice-related application. Clear, colored illustrations and numerous cross references serve for faster comprehension and conveyence of information. By virtue of its interdisciplinary character, this reference book is an irreplaceable aid for users from all fields of textile industry. Thus, no textile engineer and no library should be without it.
Textile - Reference Book for Finishing
Fondazione ACIMIT Pub, 2002, 202 pages
Textile - Reference Book for Spinning
Textile - Reference Book for Spinning
This one introduce you carding, sliver properties, and other related mater in spinning.
Textile - Reference Book for Spinning
ACIMIT Pub, 2002, 199 pages
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Textile - Reference Book for Weaving
 |
| Textile - Reference Book for Weaving |
Textile - Reference Book for Weaving, Owing to the specialization trend of modern technology, the weaving industry (C1920 Indian Child Navaho Loom Weaving Industry
) is supplied today only with ″hard″ packages, with yarn wound on rigid tubes which consequently can be used as such in the weaving process (Learning to Weave
). Should the type of package not be appropriate, then the first operation to carry out would be rewinding (cone winding), a processing phase which can be considered as the last integration of the spinning process. (Hands on Rigid Heddle Weaving
) Starting from the storehouse, the yarn is subjected to following working sequence until the weaving stage.
) is supplied today only with ″hard″ packages, with yarn wound on rigid tubes which consequently can be used as such in the weaving process (Learning to Weave). Should the type of package not be appropriate, then the first operation to carry out would be rewinding (cone winding), a processing phase which can be considered as the last integration of the spinning process. (Hands on Rigid Heddle Weaving) Starting from the storehouse, the yarn is subjected to following working sequence until the weaving stage.A book for weaving.
Textile - Reference Book for Weaving
Fondazione ACIMIT Pub, 2000, 93 pages
Textbook of Practical Organic Chemistry (5th Edition) A.I. Vogel, Vogel's Textbook of Practical Organic Chemistry (5th Edition)
Textbook of Practical Organic Chemistry (5th Edition)
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A.I. Vogel, Vogel's Textbook of Practical Organic Chemistry (5th Edition)
Prentice Hall | ISBN: 0582462363 | 1996 | HTML & PDF | 1552 Pages
Most widely used, established and respected reference manual for the organic chemistry laboratory. Incorporates new reactions and techniques now available to the organic chemistPrentice Hall | ISBN: 0582462363 | 1996 | HTML & PDF | 1552 Pages
Textile Printing Revised Second Edition By Leslie W. C. Miles
Textile Printing Revised Second Edition By Leslie W. C. Miles
"Textile Printing is sometimes regarded as an industrial art, having a long history and an assured future. Although it will always be a multidisplinary activity, in the 21st century it is highly dependent on science and technology. The aim of this book is to introduce the reader to all technical considerations that are important in textile printing. At the same time the various authors, all with long experience in the industry, encourage the reader not to loose sight of the human factor in producing successful results, which require the coordination of many individuals' skills. All the major printing techniques are covered, including screen printing, the dominant method at the present time. A brand new chapter on digital systems has been included."
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"Textile Printing is sometimes regarded as an industrial art, having a long history and an assured future. Although it will always be a multidisplinary activity, in the 21st century it is highly dependent on science and technology. The aim of this book is to introduce the reader to all technical considerations that are important in textile printing. At the same time the various authors, all with long experience in the industry, encourage the reader not to loose sight of the human factor in producing successful results, which require the coordination of many individuals' skills. All the major printing techniques are covered, including screen printing, the dominant method at the present time. A brand new chapter on digital systems has been included."
Recycling in Textiles By Y. Wang
Recycling in Textiles By Y. Wang
* Publisher: Woodhead Publishing Ltd
* Number Of Pages: 240
* Publication Date: 2006-03-30
* ISBN-10 / ASIN: 1855739526
* ISBN-13 / EAN: 9781855739529
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* Publisher: Woodhead Publishing Ltd
* Number Of Pages: 240
* Publication Date: 2006-03-30
* ISBN-10 / ASIN: 1855739526
* ISBN-13 / EAN: 9781855739529
Recycling in textiles
Edited by Y Wang, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA
Woodhead Textiles Series No. 50
- provides extensive coverage of this hot topic
- an invaluable guide for all in the textile industry
- learn how to increase the rate of recycling
An increasing amount of waste is generated each year from textiles and their production. For economic and environmental reasons it is necessary that as much of this waste as possible is recycled instead of being disposed of in landfill sites. In reality the rate of textile recycling is still relatively low. On average, approximately ten million tonnes of textile waste is currently dumped in Europe and America each year. Considering the diversity of fibrous waste and structures, many technologies must work in concert in an integrated industry in order to increase the rate of recycling. Recycling in textiles shows how this can be achieved.
The first part of the book introduces the subject by looking at the general issues involved and the technologies concerned. Part Two explores the chemical aspects of textile recycling. Part Three focuses on recycled textile products, including nonwovens and alternative fibres. Finally, the last part of the book discusses possible applications of recycled textiles, including using recycled products in the operating theatre, for soil stabilisation and in concrete reinforcement.
Recycling in textiles presents several promising technologies and ideas for recycling systems. This is the first book of its kind to bring together textile recycling issues, technology, products, processes and applications. It will prove an invaluable guide to all those in the industry who are now looking for ways to recycle their textile waste.
ISBN 1 85573 952 6
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 952 9
March 2006
248 pages 234 x 156mm hardback
Contents
PART 4 APPLICATIONS OF RECYCLED TEXTILES Introduction
Y Wang, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA Textile recycling: a system perspectivePART 1 GENERAL TEXTILE RECYCLING ISSUES AND TECHNOLOGY
J M Hawley, University of Missouri, USA
- Introduction. Systems theory. Understanding the textile and apparel recycling process. Textile recycling constituents. The sorting process. The pyramid model. Textile recycling constituents. Discussion and future trends. References. The design of easy to recycle textile products
B Gulich, STFI, Germany
- Introduction. Basic methods. Examples. Conclusion. Sources of further information. Carpet stewardship in the United States: a commitment to sustainability
R Peoples, The Carpet and Rug Institute and Carpet America Recovery Effort, USA
- Introduction. Carpet industry environmental stewardship. Carpet recycling – early efforts. The Carpet America Recovery Effort. Creating a new industry – material flows. The role of non-carpet products in carpet recycling. Conclusions. Future trends. Systems planning for carpet recycling
M Realff, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA
- Introduction. The need strategic systems planning. Previous system issues. Case study summary. The estimation of carpet recycling volumes. Initial collection schemes. The alternative structures for consolidating and sorting of carpet. Cases studies. Discussion. Conclusions and future trends. References. Carpet recycling technologies
Y Wang, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA
- Introduction. Fiber identification and sorting. Size reduction. Mechanical separation of carpet components. Solvent extraction of nylon from carpet. Depolymerization of nylon. Melt processing. Use of waste fibers as reinforcement in polymer composites. Waste to energy conversion. Conclusion. References. Recycling waste water from textile productionPART 2 CHEMICAL ASPECTS IN TEXTILE RECYCLING
R Schneider, Institut für Textilchemie und Chemiefasern, Germany
- Introduction. System analysis. Optimization of processes for water recycling. Direct reuse of waste water. Wastewater treatments and water recycling with membrane technology. Reuse of reclaimed/recycled water. Future trends. Sources of further information. References. Recycling and reuse of textile chemicals
G Buschle-Diller, Auburn University, USA
- Introduction
- Fabric preparation processes
- Dyeing and printing processes
- Recycling of finishing compounds
- Waste minimisation at source
- Conclusions
- References Development of products made of reclaimed fibresPART 3 RECYCLED TEXTILE PRODUCTS
B Gulich, STFI, Germany
- Introduction
- Products and markets
- Examples
- Future trends
- Sources of further information Manufacturing nonwovens and other products using recycled fibers
K D Langley and Y K Kim, University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, USA
- Introduction
- Spandex
- Review of recycling
- Evaluation and characterization of raw material
- Fiber separation trial at recycling plant
- Laboratory scale processing of the recycled materials
- Chemical treatment of the raw material
- Mechanical processing of the chemically treated samples
- Nonwovens
- Experiments in production of nonwoven samples
- Flocking study
- Oil absorption characteristics of fibrous waste masses
- Conclusions
- References Textile products produced from alternative fibers
B R George and A Bockarie, Philadelphia University, A Evazynajad, Gudebrod Inc., N Bieak, Auburn University and H McBride, Philadelphia University, USA
- Introduction
- Experimental procedures
- Results and discussion
- Conclusions
- References Recycling of textiles used in the operating theatrePART 4 APPLICATIONS OF RECYCLED TEXTILES
M J Abreu, M E Silva, Universidade do Minho, Portugal, L Schacher, D Adolphe, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Industries Textiles de Mulhouse, France
- Introduction
- Directives
- European Standards
- Products
- Materials
- Requirements (properties)
- Market
- Environmental aspects
- Future trends
- Conclusions
- Reference Utilisation of recycled fiber waste for soil stabilisation
J Muzzy, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA
- Introduction
- Separating carpet
- Composites from sorted carpet
- Wood fiber reinforced composites
- Products from reinforced post-consumer carpet
- Conclusions
- Acknowledgment
- References Utilization of recycled carpet fibers for reinforcement of concrete and soil
Y Wang, Georgia Institute of Technology, USA
- Introduction
- Fiber reinforced concrete
- Recycled fiber reinforced concrete
- Fiber reinforced soil
- Recycled fiber reinforced soil
- Conclusions
- References
B.P. Saville “Physical Testing of Textiles”
B.P. Saville “Physical Testing of Textiles”
Woodhead Publishing Ltd | 336 pages | 1999-01 | ISBN:1855733676 | PDF | 12.2MB
This book covers the physical testing of textiles in the form offiber, yarn, and fabric - based mainly on British and American standard methods of test. Topics include: sampling, measurement errors, fiber length and width measurement, yarn linear density, twist, evenness, hairiness, tensile strength of all forms, tear strength, dimensional stability, serviceability, wear comfort, thermal and moisture properties, color fastness, objective assessment of fabric handle, quality assurance. Physical Testing of Textiles serves as a modern study on the subject, providing a comprehensive resource for students joining the textile industry as well as professionals and personnel working in the areas of testing and quality assurance.
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Woodhead Publishing Ltd | 336 pages | 1999-01 | ISBN:1855733676 | PDF | 12.2MB
This book covers the physical testing of textiles in the form offiber, yarn, and fabric - based mainly on British and American standard methods of test. Topics include: sampling, measurement errors, fiber length and width measurement, yarn linear density, twist, evenness, hairiness, tensile strength of all forms, tear strength, dimensional stability, serviceability, wear comfort, thermal and moisture properties, color fastness, objective assessment of fabric handle, quality assurance. Physical Testing of Textiles serves as a modern study on the subject, providing a comprehensive resource for students joining the textile industry as well as professionals and personnel working in the areas of testing and quality assurance.
CHEMISTRY & TECHNOLOGY OF FABRIC PREPARATION & FINISHING
CHEMISTRY & TECHNOLOGY OF FABRIC PREPARATION & FINISHING
Another useful book for beginner student in textile.
CHEMISTRY & TECHNOLOGY OF FABRIC PREPARATION & FINISHING
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING, CHEMISTRY AND SCIENCE, 1992, 268 pages
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